Ad Lib

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Glasgow's two Ad Libs have carved a niche as perhaps the more mature establishments that focus on US-style cuisine. The newer Merchant City outlet has a grander atmosphere, with marble walls and well-spaced booths that give it a chic, cosmopolitan ambience. The original on Hope Street (right near Central Station) feels a little more casual – and more Manhattan-like – with its front bar area and a small, cosier dining room to the rear. The two venues have slightly different menus and this helps give each a sense of individuality. Still, burgers and steaks are their main stock in trade, although some more interesting meals are to be found away from these signature dishes. A whole sea bass with lemon cream and chive mash is unfussy, filling and fresh. The juicy barbecued half chicken – with sweet potato chips, salad and paprika mayonnaise – comes covered in sweet, sticky barbecue sauce that is satisfyingly messy to eat. Friendly service is common to both ventures.

• High point: Spacious surroundings (Ingram St)
• Low point: Trashed toilets (Hope St)