Tinderbox

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Funky geometric prints and flashes of lime green set the scene for Tinderbox’s architecturally trendy Merchant City outlet. The large space divides into zones with distinct identities; a cosy mezzanine with black leather chairs, a double height front with small tables and booths and a bright new corner spot with slouchy sofas. The menu can also be divided into three themes: cakes, sandwiches and hot food. Cakes are temptingly presented, with counter platters of mini-loaves and muffins while chilled shelves display slabs of cheesecakes and slices of frangipani in flavours such as blueberry and raspberry or chocolate and pear. Toasted flatbread sandwiches, heated up from a packet, look like a wedge of cardboard although tastier fillings make them a viable alternative to the ubiquitous panini. For something more substantial, there is a range of deli-made gourmet pies and a microwaved hot dish of the day, such as Aberdeen Angus and butter bean stew, a rich, tomato based dish with tender chunks of beef and flaky beans, served in a square bowl with a less than elegant paper bag of crusty bread.

• High point: Large coffees served in gigantic bowl cups
• Low point: Quite expensive