The Orchard

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Orchard has done its best to be as accommodating as possible: you can cosy down on the squashy sofas over brunch at the weekends; grab a window table and watch the passing crowds or barfly it at the large central bar. Dark wooden furniture contrasts with cream walls and a soft glow emanates from multi-lobed, multi-coloured ceiling lamps. The menu offers your typical pub selections (beef burgers, battered fish, sausages and mash), with a good range of sandwiches available from midday. Thyme and garlic brie reveals a soft oozing centre beneath its crunchy golden crust, though the raspberry coulis doesn't make the most complementary accompaniment. Potato skins are so huge they're more reminiscent of jacket potatoes and come heavily loaded with chorizo and cheese. Spaghetti with prawns is a delicate dish that's subtly flavoured (perhaps too subtle for some) with lemon, chilli and garlic. Fresh, peppery rocket finishes the dish nicely. Home-made beef stroganoff includes tender strips of beef and mushroom in a cream sauce so rich that some may find it too heavy. To round off, crowd-pleasing desserts include cheesecake, a chocolate brownie or apple pie.

• High point: Generous portions
• Low point: Unadventurous menu

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