Sprio & Co

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Squeezed between two galleries in St Stephen Street, Marcello Sprio's Deli and Latteria catches the first lick of morning sunshine. He and partner Kathryn Macallister decided in 2006 that they'd had enough of noisy city life in Milan. The result is that Stockbridge's early risers can enjoy an Italian coffee and pasticcini pastry on the way to work (and read the placemats for La Republica's reporting of a match between Inter and Messina). Later in the day, there's just enough space for you and a friend for a light lunch, Italian-style. The array of cured meats includes the carpaccio platter, air-dried bresaola served with parmigiano and rocket glistening with aceto balsamico di Modena and extra virgin olive oil. A fresh and appetising insalate tonno brings ripe tomatoes, chunks of juicy tuna, creamy mozzarella and salad, or you might choose a panini with scamorza (smoked cow's milk cheese), grilled aubergines, basil and tomato. After an affogatto of vanilla ice-cream with a shot of aromatic espresso, browse the Italian goods for sale and perhaps take away a loaf of fresh bread or an almond and pear tart for tea.

• High point: Simple, quality food in modest quantities
• Low point: Popping in for a thick, hot cioccolata could become a dangerous habit