Espresso Mondo / E Mondo

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Views out to hectic Tollcross, where buses and ATMs decorate the landscape, may not compare favourably with a panoramic view over the New Town, but the location of Espresso Mondo is no less interesting. Grab a table by one of the impressive windows for a spot of people watching, or – if you prefer a hidden retreat – there are plenty of comfy sofas in which to settle. Indeed, Espresso Mondo is so relaxing that it has become a favourite spot for professionals to visit at lunchtime or after work for a coffee, a bite to eat and a chat. Come evening, the venue changes its name to E Mondo to emphasise the shift from coffee shop to brasserie. As the kitchen is fairly modest there's little on the menu that strays from the familiar fare of pasta, tapas, wraps and bagels, but all of these are prepared with care, in particular a pasta carbonara, topped with an egg yolk, which, when forked, seeps out to form the basis of a rich sauce. Like the rest of the food, it is a cut above standard café fodder.

• High point: Great for quality snack food in comfy setting
• Low point: No real star dishes in the menu