Inspiration Oriental Cuisine

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Inspiration may not quite live up to its eponymous promise, but it certainly raises hopes for the future. Spacious, stylish surroundings, attractive tableware, attention to detail and the truly beautiful presentation that gives traditional dishes a graceful, modern twist makes dining here an opulent experience. Alongside a good selection of wines and Chinese beers, the elegance extends to the food itself, which fuses simple Chinese cuisine and imaginative flourishes. Fluffy battered prawns with sweet honey and sesame seeds are a treat, and perfectly spiced thick hot and sour soup gives satisfying heat without overpowering the palate. Soft roasted duck bathed in subtle orange and Cointreau sauce is a classic combination that lets the ingredients shine, but the staff-recommended tangerine chicken takes the idea to new heights, with zesty chilli-spiked sauce stickily coating delectable deep-fried chicken bites. The intriguing firey ice ball dessert (deep-fried ice-cream with a Chinese rosé liqueur flambé – unfortunately sold out at time of visit) indicates the kitchen's willingness to experiment and develop, also demonstrated by the good value, regularly changing 'chef's choice' lunch menu. With more imagination and flair than many of its competitors, Inspiration looks set to deliver on its promise and mature into an inspired choice for a Chinese meal.

• High point: Elegant, modern twist on classic dishes
• Low point: Intriguing dessert options unavailable at time of visit