Palmerston's

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

PLEASE NOTE: THIS RESTAURANT HAS NOW CLOSED

Review written spring 2007.

Palmerston's opened in August 2006, on the corner site of Morningside Road that was previously occupied by Orbis. The generously spaced tables, comfortable colonial-style wicker chairs and professional front-of-house team give it a sophisticated air that perfectly suits this locale. New owner Simon Lloyd has retained chef Danny Owen from the Orbis kitchen, but given him more creative scope and sanctioned the sourcing of some of Scotland's finest produce, resulting in a menu that is concise, but perfectly focused. A delicate starter of crab and avocado salad is bursting with summery freshness and enlivened further by a vibrant tomato tartare. Mains are all about using the freshest produce in effective compositions. Local pheasant breast wrapped in crisp strips of pancetta shines with the help of a subtle kohlrabi purée, while an incredibly tender fillet of beef is sourced from the best Scottish herds reared on a completely natural diet. The chef doesn't falter when it comes to the side salad either, packing in juicy olives, mixed seeds and sun-blush tomatoes with the freshest of baby leaves. One of the nicest surprises is the wine list, offering an impressive and competitively priced selection of wines by the glass from small, interesting producers.

• High point: Perfectly formed wine list
• Low point: Limited number of tables so it's better to book