La Fontana

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

The arrival of La Fontana in mid-2006 continues the Mediterranean tradition for this prominent, but ever-changing Canonmills site. The neon 'Ristorante Italiano' sets the tone for a faux-brick bar and rousing Italian pop music. There are more than two dozen familiar starters, including avocado with prawns in a Maria rosa sauce, alongside the likes of mussels, garlic king prawns and a comforting seafood stew in a cavernous pot of tomato sauce. The substantial mains embrace all manner of chicken, fish, steak and veal dishes. Pollo alla vecchia Romagna arrives steeped with cream, mozzarella and Parma ham, and careful maneuvering excavates a slightly over-browned chicken breast beneath. A separate plate is necessary to accommodate chips and broccoli of truly Alpine proportions. Lasagna al forno is a safer affair, and there are other good value pasta and pizza dishes, with an option to mix half and half. Children are not forgotten, with smaller portions available and an inimitable Italian willingness to accommodate family dining. Don't expect to peruse the wine list for hours - Merlot, or similar, is the most detail provided. La Fontana is a no-frills Italian experience but nonetheless provides indisputable quantity and second-to-none hospitality.

• High point: Price-enticing
• Low point: Inescapably waist-expanding