Mariachi

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

University heartland Potterow plays host to the newest of the Mariachi branches in Edinburgh and, by replacing Kushi's, one of Scotland's seminal Indian restaurants, it has a sizeable void to fill in the area. Thankfully, it's up to the task. Like its sister establishment in Victoria Street, there's a selection of outstandingly tasty starters that merit a visit. Tiger prawns in garlic and white wine are genuine quality; mussels in a smoky tomato broth are as fat and juicy as you can find anywhere; and the battered chillies stuffed with cheese are blisteringly hot and irresistible at the same time. There's a fairly even split on the main courses between recognisable Mexican fare and char-grilled options. Charred burgers or steaks with fries are a mainstay here, and they're satisfying enough without rivalling the quality you'd find in a steak or grill house. The fajitas are a better test of the kitchen: the sizzling metal plates can be heard before the grand mound of spiced meat is visible, and these unapologetically 'man-sized' portions represent an effort to create everything you could ask for from a Mexican restaurant. Find yourself in Victoria Street on a busy weekend night and enjoy just that.

• High point: Offering the best of what you expect from a Mexican restaurant
• Low point: The steaks don't quite compete with the best in town