Celadon

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Celadon has a quiet, understated charm, making the most of the 18th century building with soft green shades and exposed stone walls that divide it into two chic and welcoming dining areas. A tinkling jazz soundtrack adds a mellow vibe, and a varied menu boasts many old favourites, which have been given a contemporary spin by dextrous chef Lek Nopporn Kongton. From the starters, weeping tiger is a lightly-seasoned slice of barbecued sirloin, bristling with peppery chillies and served on a mound of salad laced with sharp lime. Tempura-coated plump and fleshy tiger prawns are also notable for their crisp skin and meaty centre, served with an assortment of asparagus and mushrooms as well as a sweet dipping sauce with racy pickled ginger. Mains include tod yum – an artfully dressed red snapper – the fluffy flesh of which is pan-fried and mixed with fresh mango and cashew nuts then piled deep on the fried husk of the boned fish. It's a courageous, delicately balanced blend of fruity and sharp flavours that has a subtle undertow of lemon-grass, bringing a touch of drama to this mild-mannered fish. Proficient and friendly service and a relaxed atmosphere round off the Celadon experience.

• High point: Cool, relaxed surroundings…
• Low point: …in a not so obviously cool area