Amarone

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £20 (lunch)
   £20 (evening meal)
• House wine: £12.95 per bottle

• High point: Smart surroundings . . .
• Low point: . . . save for staff carrying bin bag past
• Food served: Mon-Sat noon-10.30pm; Sun 12.30-10pm
• Open since: 2006
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of menu), Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Having only opened in 2006, the often packed dining room here on weeknights suggests that this restaurant from the DiMaggio team has hit the ground running. Its advantageous city centre location and smart setting attracts well-dressed couples and large tables of business customers. The classy, contemporary semi-basement space doesn't resemble a traditional trattoria; instead the menu is what brings the Italian flavour to the party. The food is practically as elegant as the fittings. King scallops are cooked to precision, melting into the garlic butter. Marble-sized fried mozzarella balls come with a vibrant citrus tomato sauce, their mini-scale making them fun to eat. Risotto made with cream and Amarone wine is deep red, with earthy flavours and topped with shaved cacciocavallo cheese (which can't quite decide whether it wants to melt or not). The loin of lamb, cooked rare, has a tasty thyme and rosemary crust with a mustard kick. The wine list is strong, separated into Italian regions with explanations of their respective grapes. Try the vin santo dessert wine: concentrated raisins in a glass.