Mama San

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Saint Jude's boutique hotel presents Mama San – a design-conscious, sultry style bar with a Southeast Asian theme. Opened in December 2007, the narrow basement space stretches from the cocktail bar up front to a sushi counter at the back, incorporating booths along the way. Contemporary prints and dreamy beats radiate a young, trendy feel, but the fashionable yet grounded staff prevent the place from becoming too exclusive. The Asian tapas-style menu should suit those who've never been able to keep their chopsticks to themselves. Sticky inside-out sushi rolls coated with spices are moreish and retain their integrity under pressure. Vivid Vietnamese vegetable salad crunches and scrunches, but fresh mint provides a sweet softness of texture and flavour. Green bean and tofu yellow curry may taste under-spiced even for the tame-tongued, but the Indonesian beef rendang tingles the throat long after it has been swallowed. Unlike the Spanish tradition, which involves fairly similar seasonings being used in several dishes, the diverse mixture of Southeast Asian spices runs the risk of conflicting flavours. That said, the tapas format is fun. Travellers returning from an Asian trip might question the restaurant's authenticity, but for those who've yet to go East, Mama San presents a sufficient beginner's guide.

• High point: Vanilla ice-cream with cinnamon and star-anise syrup
• Low point: Rice arriving long before curry