Pizzaz

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Cheese Bar & Deli that formerly occupied this prime West End spot had been open for only around a year when it was swiftly reborn in 2007 as Pizzaz (a name just begging for an exclamation mark). The decision to swap fondue for quattro formaggio may be considered a blow to diversity, but it also appears to be a good business move: this place is busier than ever, particularly with students and the weekend brunch crowd. A simple, succinct menu of around ten or so pastas and pizzas is often supplemented with meat and fish dishes in the evening. The 12-inch pizzas have super-thin bases which crisp up at the edges and are delicately topped with, for example, spiced chicken, red peppers and jalapeños (the Cajun pollo) or the satisfyingly salty Napoletana, with its black olives and anchovies. The eating space is rather small, but this, and confident waiting staff, means you never fall off the radar. The newness of the operation is perhaps reflected in the clean, fresh but ultimately rather plain surroundings. The few outdoor tables are almost guaranteed to fill up swiftly in fine weather.

• High point: Half portion pizza and pasta for lunch
• Low point: Menu too safe for adventurous diners