Tibo

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

At Tibo, chef Robert Singleton creates outstanding dishes starring prime Scottish ingredients. Breakfasts feature Ramsay's bacon, Stornoway black pudding and peat-smoked haddock, while lunch options range from smoked ham hough and puy lentil salad to moules frites (with west coast mussels, naturally). Sunday brunch is worth travelling across the city for. But it's in the evening that Tibo really shines. A starter of pearly salt and chilli squid has just the right amount of chilli warmth, tempered by a lime dipping sauce. A slice of toasted brioche topped with pear, beetroot, blue cheese and walnuts combines sweet, salty and earthy tastes with a crunch (if tending to be a bit dry). Among main courses, roast chicken breast is moist and tender, with salt-crisp skin, resting on a potato rosti and surrounded by neat ovals of chorizo and pesto. Beetroot gnocchi with ricotta, sage, almonds and spinach is gently comforting and delights the eye with its green, white and cerise colour combination. Sticky toffee pudding is an exemplar of the genre – it's moist, dark and dense – while a chocolate tart has a feather-light mousse filling in a fine short pastry case.

• High point: Increasingly sophisticated dining destination
• Low point: Food of this quality isn't cheap