Toni's

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Since taking charge here in July 2006, the Flores family have worked to ensure that Toni's is more than just another city centre pizza joint. Despite the location, it feels more like a neighbourhood favourite. The Italian staff, aided by translations from Daniela, deliver efficient service while her imposing father, Mino, creates the lively atmosphere. He flits between kitchen and dining room, charming the regulars, cajoling the waiters and barracking the chefs. The menu offers a large choice of pizza, pasta and risotto, but the specials board moves towards less stereotypical dishes. Gnocchi baked in foil releases a plume of basil-scented steam, while a generous antipasto is raised above the norm with slices of creamy soft cheese. Main course specials range from fried market fish to some deliciously tender cubes of veal stewed in a tomato broth, with herb-flecked rice to soak it all up. Revealing a bit of ambition, there are tentative plans for Italian language classes and wine events, while 'Mama' Flores already creates personalised food hampers filled with Italian treats starting at £20.

• High point: Family atmosphere
• Low point: Unimaginative desserts