Grand Fish & Chips

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Grand Fish & Chips, hitting its first anniversary in summer 2008, should put a halt to the proverbial revolving door of ventures to occupy these Italian Centre premises in recent memory. With this operation – featuring posh fish teas with a choice of battered or breaded haddock, cod, sole and more – the Baby Grand Group appears to have hit on a winning formula. The outdoor seating is among the best in the city, but the casual bistro ambience inside – with rear conservatory and open kitchen – complements the cuisine, too. In addition to the namesake fare, served with mushy peas slightly sweetened by grated carrot and honey (plus the option of pickled onions on the side), the menu features some clay-oven roasted selections. They include whole sea bass or skewers of tender monkfish chunks and king prawns, served with roast baby potatoes. Puddings are as traditional as any seaside café's: the ice-cream option is dished out knickerbocker glory-style with swirls of jelly in a sundae glass. In addition to the normal operating hours listed above, the restaurant opens at 10am in the summer, serving coffees and light meals, and you can order your fish suppers to takeaway, too.

• High point: Proper fish tea
• Low point: Tick, tick, tick, tick of a fan in conservatory