The Kitchin

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

He trained at some of Europe's finest restaurants under Pierre Koffman and Alain Ducasse, so it is not surprising that Tom Kitchin has made such a fast success of his Leith establishment. He returned to Scotland two years ago and within six months had brought another Michelin star to Edinburgh. He also brought wife Michaela, who is responsible for the sophisticated interior of the converted whisky bond warehouse on Commercial Quay and its masculine chic of grey walls and smooth dark wood tables. Kitchin enjoys cooking to the season and bringing his grounding in French cuisine to classic Scottish ingredients. From the exceptionally good-value lunch menu a translucent carpaccio of halibut liberally sprinkled with fresh lemon or Savoy cabbage stuffed with Scottish beef offer an insight into the confidence the young chef has with simple ingredients and bold flavours. The set-price lunches are limited in choices but clearly derivative of the fuller à la carte evening menu, when you can expect an array of perfectly fresh local ingredients such as scallops, langoustine, red mullet, pork and local game such as duck and rabbit. The menu headings may be taciturn – 'scallops', 'vegetables', 'pork' – but the dishes are inventive and intriguing, with elements as unexpected as sea urchin eggs (from North Berwick), bone marrow and three varieties of carrot on one plate. Staff are friendly and knowledgeable, though service is perhaps a touch perfunctory for this class of restaurant.

• High point: A surprisingly lively and easy-going location for high-end dining
• Low point: Customer care could be a touch more caring