Amicus Apple

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Amicus Apple has been under new ownership since 2007, and its basement area has been transformed into a chic, welcoming, boudoir-like space. Patterned black walls, twinkling light fittings and comfortable leather chairs accommodate shoppers and office types in a bar whose culinary operation is making the effort to do something a bit special. The lunch menu has an expansive selection of tempting sandwiches, such as corn-fed chicken with pesto and roasted tomatoes on focaccia, hot and cold salads, sharing platters and hot dishes. Scottish mussels, salty-sweet in a clinging whisky and bacon cream sauce, make an enjoyable starter. A salad of avocado and puy lentils includes roasted tomatoes bursting with intense sweetness, while nutty sunflower seeds and baby spinach complete the dish. West coast chowder of salmon, haddock and mussels has a fresh, delicate dil and fennel flavouring and arrives with saffron aioli and sourdough bread. Make sure to leave room for a dessert: the lavender and heather honey crème brûlée is worthy of a much more expensive establishment. Subtly perfumed silky cream hides beneath a delicate golden sugar crust, while fresh-from-the-oven shortbread thins and spiced bramble compote crown this delectable dessert.

• High point: Dessert (and the cocktail list)
• Low point: Slightly more limited menu at night