Ruan Siam

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

In a basement on the corner of the New Town's Howe Street is the flagship of Edinburgh's Ruan Thai trio of restaurants. A cosy little place with vaulted ceilings, carefully chosen spot-lit artworks and charming staff, Ruan Siam succeeds in achieving that elusive balance between smart contemporary and Thai kitsch where many others have failed. The food doesn't disappoint either, with starters of juicy, char-grilled beef satay full of the flavours of its spicy marinade, and som tum – a traditional Thai salad of shredded green papaya and carrot doused in a tongue-tingling dressing of fish sauce, garlic and chilli. All of the anticipated stir-fry and curry dishes are expertly prepared. Chilli fans would do well to try kaeng piroth, a fiery jungle curry with fresh peppercorns and Thai basil, but no coconut milk to sooth the burn. More creative dishes however, such as pla song samut, a crispy fried sea bass in both sweet and sour and cashew nut stir-fry sauces, might not be to everyone's taste. Fresh banana fritters are the highlight of the simple dessert menu, but excelling at all the favourites in such appealing surroundings seems a guaranteed recipe for success.

• High point: A polished interior that's both cosy and contemporary
• Low point: More imaginative dishes may not please all palates