Ruan Siam

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

This Stockbridge sister to Cockburn Street's Ruan Thai provides highly regarded, grown-up dining in tasteful surroundings. The elegant Thai décor is dominated by the simplicity of whitewashed stone walls only occasionally broken by colourful paintings. Utilising its basement layout, the restaurant breaks down to three separate coves making for an intimate setting, although this can verge on cramped during busy nights. A selection of well-priced set banquets (available for two or more) will be welcomed by those overwhelmed by the 70-plus dishes spread over eight pages on the main menu. Whichever route you take, well-sourced ingredients ensure a reliable overall standard with a special mention going to the delightfully plump prawns, courtesy of Eddie's in Marchmont, which for once justify the description of "King". Elsewhere a sweet, sticky Tamarind sauce makes a great complement to crispy, albeit slightly dry, duck, while Som Tum salad is a vibrant, fresh mix of green papaya, carrot and green beans given a fiery kick from the red chilli dressing. Indeed, those of a sensitive disposition should be warned that some dishes, including the dipping sauces, are noticeably hotter than their equivalents elsewhere – others, of course, may welcome this.

• High point: A good choice for groups wanting a refined rather than raucous evening
• Low point: Cosily intimate can change to cramped for couples on busy nights