The Glass Pavilion

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

The Glass Pavilion in Broughty Ferry is where architecture meets food meets nature through a pane of glass and a stunning view of the Silvery Tay. The high, sweeping, all-glass frontage of the restaurant provides a panoramic outlook that extends far out to sea and across to Fife. The contemporary styling is matched by an art deco interior that is reminiscent of a luxury ocean liner, and even the waiting staff have blue waistcoats and matching shirts. Every inch of space is utilised to create a bustling café run from a gin-palace bar. The fact that each table is able to enjoy the view is testimony to the architects who transformed this former bathing shelter into a contemporary eatery serving everything from standard tearoom fare to à la carte evening meals. Soup and sandwiches seem to be the favoured lunchtime choice, although there are main courses available. Confusing menus don't lay the best of foundations, and slow service can't fully be justified as giving you time to appreciate the view. However, the evening menu steps up a gear in both care and execution, with dishes such as poached fillet of halibut accompanied by an oyster and vegetable nage and fillet of Angus beef served with wild mushroom gratin typical of what's available.

• High point: Inspiring architecture and fantastic views
• Low point: Pedestrian pace