The Wee Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Wee Restaurant has an identity crisis. Despite its appropriate name and admittedly limited dimensions, the North Queensferry eatery has all the hallmarks of a big-league venue on a small scale. Slick, friendly service, well thought out menus presented on wooden wine-case lids and faultless cooking from chef/owner Craig Wood make it a cracking out-of-town find. In fact, the only element that accurately reflects its name is the very reasonable bill. Admittedly, the official 26-cover capacity seems a little steep and you certainly get a good idea of what to order from the plates on neighbouring tables, but this intimacy is more than offset by the quality of the food on offer. A clever starter of mussels, bacon, fresh basil and pine nuts, for example, gives an old favourite a subtle and welcomed textural twist. Mains of garlic-roasted hake fillet and slow-cooked gammon maintain the high standards with beautifully presented veg completing them. A delicate glazed lemon tart with thick crème Chantilly rounds off what is a virtually faultless meal. Add a little leg room and you'd have one of the most satisfying meals you could possibly hope for, not only on price but also in terms of quality and service.

• High point: Clever and stylish food
• Low point: The squeeze on the way out