The Wee Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Wee Restaurant has an identity crisis. Despite its appropriate name and admittedly limited dimensions, the North Queensferry eatery has all the hallmarks of a big-league venue on a small scale. Slick, friendly service, well thought out menus presented on wooden wine-case lids, and faultless cooking from chef/owner Craig Wood make it a cracking out-of-town find. In fact, the only element that accurately reflects its name is the very reasonable bill. You certainly get a good idea of what to order from the plates on neighbouring tables, but this intimacy is more than offset by the quality of the food on offer. A clever starter of mussels, bacon, fresh basil and pine nuts, for example, gives an old favourite a subtle and welcome textural twist. Mains of garlic-roasted hake fillet and slow-cooked gammon maintain the high standards with beautifully presented veg completing them. A delicate glazed lemon tart with thick crème Chantilly rounds off what is a virtually faultless meal. Add a little leg room and you'd have one of the most satisfying meals you could possibly hope for, not only on price but also in terms of quality and service. The opening of an extension, The Study, in the autumn of 2008 has extended seating by an extra ten covers, taking the total to 34.

• High point: Clever and stylish food
• Low point: The squeeze on the way out