Chai Adventures in Tea

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Nestled between the brash hedonism of the Cowgate and the surrounding tourist traps lies a little slice of heaven. Opened in 2006, Chai is primarily a teahouse, featuring a staggering range of teas from around the world. For solid sustenance it offers full light and evening meal menus. Main meals are based around hearty traditional meat or vegetable dishes, each with an added flair aimed at elevating it beyond bistro level. A savoury vegetable version of a tarte tatin is minimally finished with caraway seeds, while a grilled cod is given the full spinach, leek and truffle oil treatment. Similarly, starters and desserts give standard ideas a little twist (the filo horn of pan-fried king prawns is especially successful). It will be interesting to see if the upcoming introduction of tea-based elements in the cookery can help raise Chai to the culinary level to which it aspires. But where Chai succeeds best is as a teahouse/bar/place to hang out. The Moroccan décor, endless drinks menu and willingness to accommodate customer suggestions (knitting circles, dance classes and ad hoc birthday parties) add up to a relaxed, welcoming feel. It may exist in a state of organised chaos, but one can't help willing it to succeed.

• High point: Tea-based cocktails, both alcoholic and AA-friendly
• Low point: The organised chaos sometimes veers into the shambolic