Spirit of Thai

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Since 2006 this popular restaurant has been treating the West End's office workers and theatre-goers to attractively presented dishes and the friendliest service around. Simply styled, with cream walls and dark wooden beams, the small space has an airy feel, with modern artwork and an exotic orchid display being the only hints that the menu is overflowing with Thai flavours. If choosing just one appetiser is too tricky, opt for the Thai sampler selection of mixed starters, which arrives arranged around an exquisitely carved water lily. Chicken satay is smothered in a rich peanut sauce, while citrus-laced fish-cakes, crispy spring rolls and meaty prawn-cakes have no hint of the greasiness that can spoil similar dishes elsewhere. Main courses range from creative Thai-influenced fish dishes to the usual curries and stir-fries. For a curry with less of a chilli kick than usual, try a bowl of gaeng mussaman gai, packed with juicy slow-cooked chicken, potatoes and crunchy cashews in a headily spiced coconut sauce. In the unlikely event that there's room for dessert, the hot banana fritters in batter crackling with dessicated coconut are proof that there is nothing wrong with keeping things simple.

• High point: Genuinely charming and helpful waiting staff
• Low point: Décor starting to look well worn