Spirit of Thai

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Spirit of Thai is a very professional outfit. It’s obvious from the moment you step into the tastefully dressed room – all muted tan shades and carefully positioned woodcarvings – and are greeted by the immaculately turned out staff, that this is more than just an opportunity to take advantage of the proximity of the Usher Hall and Lyceum Theatre. Try opening with the pomelo and chicken salad, a palate-refreshing starter that combines a spiced, sweet dressing with a sharp citrus tang and is deceptively fiery. A more soothing main might be the panaeng pla salmon – pan-fried salmon in a red curry sauce with coconut. Not everywhere can manage it, but here, despite the addition of the sauce, the fish is still gloriously crisp on the outside and delicately cooked throughout. An alternative might be the vegetable red curry – a more concentrated and intense burst of flavour, but every bit as rich, warming and satisfying. Desserts are few, but the mango and sticky rice is bounteous and refreshing.

• High point: Relaxed and classy dining
• Low point: No pre-theatre menu, despite the location