Kebabish

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

While no longer a part of the Kebabish Original chain, this Govanhill eatery continues to lure customers with its flame-filled open kitchen, contemporary interior and tremendous value for money. Above all, it still delivers on its promise of 'the thrill of the grill' – whether that's huge portions of succulent lamb chops or chicken wings. The standout dish, however, could well be a delicately spiced fillet of fish, lightly fried with chillies and ginger and then grilled over the coals with a tangle of sweet onions. The menu is vast, incorporating a range of tandoori dishes as well as kebabs and biryanis. There are also some less familiar choices, including a rich, slowly cooked lamb and lentil stew. While the vegetarian options are less impressive, that is unlikely to stop Kebabish from becoming a local institution. Its no-alcohol policy, together with a good selection of fruit juices, lassis and traditional desserts, encourages trade among the south Asian community, while the showing of classic Bollywood films on plasma television screens adds a certain vibrancy and emotion to the proceedings.

• High point: Grilled meat and fish
• Low point: Films can kill conversation