Bar Kandi
City Centre
- Food served: Mon–Sun noon–8pm
- Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun noon–midnight
- Also offers: Wheelchair access
- Capacity: 60
- Largest group: 60
- Open since: 2006
- House wine: £11 per bottle
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Having revived its reputation as a stylish weekend destination (after a change of hands and name a while back), Bar Kandi has also developed a degree of humility since its Candy Bar days: it rarely feels like somewhere reserved only for the beautiful and carefree. A flexible menu means dining here is a worthwhile endeavour. The 'beginning' (starters, that is) includes vegetable pakora, chicken liver pâté or black pudding and bacon salad; 'the middle' has steak and Guinness pie, haddock with chips or haggis, neeps and tatties; while 'grazing' is essentially a list of snacks and tapas. Among a strong seafood selection, the battered squid are deep-fried, while sardines in oil and vinegar are bitingly salty to savour. The patatas bravas are slightly oily, but served in a fruity tomato salsa, while red wine gives thick slices of chorizo a full-bodied flavour. Service is enthusiastic, but can struggle a little bit with so many dishes moving to and from the kitchen.
- High point: Flexible menu
- Low point: Lingering air of pretension
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