Bruntonside Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Ideally located for Sunday strolls in nearby Avon Gorge – and a stone's throw from the beautiful historic village of Torphichen – Bruntonside makes the most of its bucolic setting with plenty of floor-to-ceiling glass. The food is great, too. Starters in particular shine: Stornoway black pudding with chorizo and orange salad has become established as the restaurant's signature dish, while blue cheese crème brûlée has lusciously sweet and sharp flavours, its accompanying pear and saffron compote adding a refreshing fruity note. A smoked haddock and dill risotto is similarly impressive, incorporating high-quality ingredients, really well cooked and beautifully presented. Mains include grilled sea bass enlivened by a well-judged olive and shallot dressing. In fact, most dishes are marked by imaginative and thoughtful accompaniments: pan-fried calf's liver comes with onion confit and a juniper and gin jus, while duck breast beds down nicely with braised red cabbage and pomegranate sauce. Weekday lunches are available at £9.95 for two courses, while the Sunday lunch roast is a popular fixture: at £19.95 for three courses (children's portions are also available) it includes delights such as rhubarb and polenta cake or an exceedingly pert lime panacotta with blueberry coulis. The décor plays safe, with hotel-style furniture, multi-coloured carpets and small framed pictures on the walls, which is a shame as Bruntonside deserves to be presented in a way that's as characterful and original as its owners and kitchen.

• High point: Great setting, great food, great wines
• Low point: Shades of Travelodge in the décor