Bruntonside Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Ideally located for Sunday strolls in nearby Avon Gorge – and a stone's throw from the beautiful historic village of Torphichen – Bruntonside makes the most of its bucolic setting with plenty of floor-to-ceiling glass. The food is great, too. Starters, in particular, shine: blue cheese crème brûlée makes for a luscious combination of sweet and sharp flavours, while its accompanying pear and saffron compote adds a refreshing fruity note. A smoked haddock and dill risotto is similarly impressive – high quality ingredients, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented. Mains include grilled sea bass enlivened by a well-judged olive and shallot dressing. In fact, most dishes are marked by imaginative and thoughtful accompaniments: pan-fried calf's liver comes with onion confit and a juniper and gin jus, while duck breast beds down nicely with braised red cabbage and pomegranate sauce. It's easy to see why the Sunday lunch roast is so popular, at £19.50 for three courses (children's portions are also available), including delights such as rhubarb and polenta cake or an exceedingly pert lime panacotta with blueberry coulis. The décor plays safe, with hotel-style furniture, multi-coloured carpets and small framed pictures on the walls, which is a shame as Bruntonside deserves to be presented in a way that's as characterful and original as its owners and kitchen.

• High point: Great setting, great food, great wines
• Low point: Shades of Travel Lodge in the décor