Lai Thai

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Taking the traditional wood carvings of Thailand and scattering them around the restaurant, from the walls, to the ornaments and even on the front of the menu, this low-key but welcoming Tollcross spot concentrates more on authenticity than flashy décor, and serves up delicious home cooking. A banquet for just under £20 a head is a good option for those put off by the long menu –it’s one of those epic kinds that often show up in Thai eateries – but despite the bamboozling choice, the dishes are of a high standard. Colin Mackay and his wife Wee(real name Wipha) make a point of keeping the flavours fresh and interesting, with a good selection of veggie options, and bean curd or veg can easily replace prawns, chicken or beef. The service is quietly on-the-ball, striking a pleasant balance of serving food promptly then leaving diners in peace. Mid week nights can be very quiet, which is good news if you want privacy to unwind, but weekends tend to be a bit livelier. A relaxing spot, like a home from home – if your home featured reclining gilt statues of Thai goddesses, and charmingly sweet waitresses.

• High point: Those creamy, moreish, aromatic curry sauces
• Low point: Can lack atmosphere on a slow night