Lai Thai

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This recently refurbished restaurant has a tranquil feel, with saffron walls, candle-lit tables and Buddhist bric-a-brac creating a warm, contemplative atmosphere. Some tables have been removed, giving diners more elbow room and more space to kick back while perusing the resourceful menu. The modest kitchen delivers a traditional set of starters, from pork ribs through to spring rolls and fish-cakes. Kanom pang naa gai comprises minced chicken paste on little slices of toast, deep fried and served with cucumber and vinegar sauce, while the vegetarian 'golden money bag' brings together spicy potato, carrot and sweetcorn into tight little rice pastries resembling cartoon swag bags. From the mains, ped yang is beautifully spiced barbecued duck served sliced on a sizzling plate and subtly laced with herbs, while a dish of chicken and crispy vegetables straight from the wok and glazed with an oyster sauce has a light, airy texture. With polite and pleasant serving staff, an abundance of choice for vegetarians and a dexterous handle on the cooking, Lai is a humble little restaurant that adds up to more than the sum of its parts.

• High point: Good, homey cooking
• Low point: Limited wine list