The Grill Room at the Square

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With stylish private bars and a swanky spa on the same level as the restaurant, this members-only club has thankfully kept its dining room doors open to mere mortals – apart from Saturdays after 7pm. Mirrors, polished surfaces and full-length windows help reflect the twinkle from the canopy of lights covering Royal Exchange Square outside, creating an atmosphere of glamour and sophistication – something that's enhanced by the attractive, uniformed staff. As might be expected, the menu's emphasis is on meat, with the smoky aromas of sizzling cuts from the kitchen hatch perhaps even capable of swaying vegetarians. Starters come mainly from the sea, with Shetland mussels, North Atlantic shrimp and a Loch Fyne crab and apple tian, the latter fresh and meaty and complemented by a sharp citrus vinaigrette. Depending on appetite – and wallet – the Scottish beef steaks range from a sensible 8oz sirloin to a challenging 22oz T-bone. The 16oz rib-eye is easily an inch and a half thick, rosy-pink inside and comes with criss-cross grill marks and a blackened rib bone. On the side, orders of sautéed onions, wild mushroom and wilted greens are served in fun little copper pots. A Belgian waffle for two may be a great way to finish.

• High point: It's all about the beef
• Low point: No vintages on wine list