Chinaski's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The almost anonymous exterior and dimly lit, stylish interior makes Chinaski's a secret and sophisticated haven from the city rush, epitomised by the sunken M8 across the road. Even if you have never heard of Henry Chinaski, the relaxed approach of bar owner Fergus McVicar's homage to the autobiographical alias of Charles Bukowski – manifest in light touches such as menu scribbles – can be appreciated by all. Chef Malcolm Seabright's range of dishes extends all over the world. For starters, there are empanadillas – little half-moons of puff pastry enclosing spinach, pine nuts, garlic and herbs – and tempura, burgers, pizzas and pastas, with an assortment of wraps and sandwiches available at lunchtime. Main courses veer from homey fish pie or bangers and mash to a more exotic pan-fried pork fillet with a zingy, sticky ginger and garlic sauce. The narrow oblong plates enhance the attractive presentation of the food, while the service is brisk without being hurried. Out back there's a heated balcony for smokers and a garden for good weather. Add 1600 diverse, well-chosen tracks on the stereo and it makes for a pleasantly grown-up experience.

• High point: More than 70 bourbons to choose from
• Low point: Limited desserts