Chinaski's

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £11 (lunch)
   £11 (evening meal)
• House wine: £9.95 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: Soundtrack
• Low point: Toilets somewhat neglected
• Food served: Mon-Sun noon-9pm
• Bar open: Mon-Sat 11am-midnight; Sun 12.30-midnight
• Open since: 2006
• Also offers: Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

An unassuming exterior lacking apparent signage lends Chinaski's a certain immediate hipness. It is inspired in name by barfly/writer Charles Bukowki's alter ego, and there are subtle references to the beat writer, though with no theme-bar triteness: doodles on the menus, extracts of his wisdom posted in the toilets and an oil portrait of CB by a local artist and friend of owner Fergus McVicar. Opposite and reflected in the mirrored wall behind the bar is a nine-piece photo/print of the late John Peel, perhaps a reference to the well-informed collective music taste of the staff who know instinctively the best background soundtrack. The décor is almost zen-like, with clean shiny surfaces, fresh plants, a fish tank and huge glass shelves bearing more than 50 varieties of bourbon (as well as an outside heated deck). And standards in the kitchen are on a par with the aesthetic. A platter of pita bread and Greek dips is served with a black olive tapenade, home-made hummous and tzatziki with freshly-torn strips of mint. Thai green chicken curry comes with a sculpted mound of white rice and a lime wedge, and is as delicious as it is well-presented. Stylish, bohemian, fresh and, above all, a great place for a bite and a drink. Bukowski surely would have approved.