Taste Good

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Taste Good doesn't exactly fit the stereotype of a Chinese restaurant. At street level it is a busy takeaway catering for locals in the know, while in the basement there's a bright, airy dining space with modern décor and pleasant background music. The sample servings plated up for display in the shopfront window may not be the most sophisticated way of enticing new customers, but judging by the constant bustle and high turnover of tables, something's pulling them in. A cleverly laid out menu (displayed in full on the restaurant's interactive website if you want to plan ahead) with easy-to-navigate section headings makes choosing your dishes more manageable. 'Popularity dishes' summarises the traditional options and lets you mix and match your meats and sauces, and spicier dishes are also indicated. The wun tun soup lives up to all expectations, with a rich texture and a strong flavour, and the main offerings are just as satisfying. Sizzling lamb with spring onion is aptly named - you'll hear the succulent meat spitting furiously as it leaves the kitchen - and this dish justifies the restaurant's sign above the door.

• High point: Light, pleasant surroundings
• Low point: Although friendly, the service slips after the main course