Hanam's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Not for nothing has Hanam's owner Jahmal Ahmed applied for new, bigger premises on Victoria Street. Pared down and pleasantly unassuming in design, Ahmed's current location on Tollcross already has a loyal following, due in no small part to its first-class service and mouth-wateringly authentic Kurdish and Middle East cuisine. There can be few restaurants in Edinburgh as welcoming as Hanam's: owner Ahmed is there seven days a week, ensuring personal service, friendly banter and sound culinary advice, whether to a party of 12 or a couple getting cosy in the corner. Starters consist of the basic staples: falafel and vine leaves are cooked with enough care to ensure the heartier mains do little to render them forgettable. Vegetarians will melt with the sweet and sour qaysi, a delicate mix of yellow split peas, apricots and sultanas, while simple dishes such as the meriske chicken kebab arrive tender, moist and boasting a perfect marriage of subtle spices. Both the £6.95 'light bite' menu, served before 6pm, and the £13.50 'mushakal taster banquet', served in the evening, provide the perfect (and very reasonably priced) option for dipping into a selection of the menu.

• High point: First rate service with a menu to match
• Low point: Fridays and Saturdays are busy so book in advance