Bon Appetit

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Tucked away off a side street in Dundee's city centre, Bon Appetit has all the ambience and charm of a bistro on the Left Bank. Informal and welcoming, it is a small corner of sunny France among the city's sea of Asian restaurants. French newspapers are plastered across the walls and the furniture is simple and café-like. Service is quick, but the attitude is slow and indulgent, reflecting the French love of food and dining. Everything, except the Bloo Coo ice-cream from Shetland and the Scottish cheese platter, is prepared on site. Uncomplicated combinations allow high quality local ingredients to make an impression, with a starter of poireaux vinaigrette (baby leeks in house vinaigrette), a main course of pork shoulder in white wine, thyme and cream, as well as bistro staples such as moules (à la normande come in bacon, cream, apples and cider) and steak frîtes. A light, creamy crème brûlée is the perfect final Gallic flourish. Bon Appetit has the relaxed ethos of a French café - where lone diners can sit comfortably alongside big parties or lunchtime business meetings - with the quality of food and wine list of a more upmarket restaurant. You can pre-order online, which is particularly good for large groups or pre-theatre dining.

• High point: Authentic French cooking
• Low point: A white board for specials and basic café chairs are more shabby than chic