Kail Yard Green

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

At one time every croft in Scotland would have its kail yard or vegetable patch - the very name of the restaurant itself hints at a dedication to imaginative Scots cuisine. Stark white painted walls and a fine selection of vivid paintings don't quite hide the fact that this used to be an Italian bistro, but there is a nice balance of formality and something more relaxed, with cottage-style chairs and tables covered in crisp white linen creating an intimate atmosphere that suits couples and small parties. The food can best be described as modern Scottish with a slight continental spin. Warm chunks of beetroot, soft melting goat's cheese, a large bed of salad leaves and crunchy garlic croutons are combined to make a typical starter. For main course, a whole-roasted, fresh-tasting sea bass is stuffed with lightly cooked plum tomatoes, parmesan shavings and delicate chervil. The venison casserole with shallots, port and thyme is dark looking and robustly meaty, and, despite being surprisingly rather mono-flavoured, is a satisfying, hearty dish. Iced praline parfait, a cross between ice-cream and mousse, makes for a good dessert - the smooth chocolate nut taste with flaked almonds providing crunch while the berry coulis adds a fruity sweetness.

• High point: Gutsy Scots menu with generous portions
• Low point: Some tables too close together