Zorba Mediterranean Taverna

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This old-fashioned family-run taverna is about as cheesy as a package holiday to a sunny island resort. But its staff are friendly to a fault, with impromptu dancing and cheerful service. Most importantly, the food is excellent. The cosy room is decorated in traditional style, with images and knick-knacks of Greece surrounding the small tables, while the menu also takes in Italy with pizza and pasta offerings. Portions are generous: a starter of loukanika – two jumbo spicy, meaty Greek sausages oozing juices – is almost enough for a main course. Cold options include creamy hummus with plenty of warm pittas. Even more filling is the stifado, a large stew of huge pieces of tender beef and onion in a sweet vinegar and wine sauce, with rice or chips. The souvlaki – lamb grilled on skewers – has an unusual barbecue flavour. If there's room for dessert, traditional options include flaky baklava and nutty kataifi. Lunch and dinner deals are particularly good value given the size of the helpings.

• High point: Feeling like you're on holiday in Greece
• Low point: Being sucked into owner Dimitri's dodgy dance routines