Michael Caines @ ABode

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Situated off the foyer of Glasgow's grand ABode hotel, chef Michael Caines' restaurant emits a sense of assured calm thanks to the sunny, efficient staff and some subtle orange back-lighting. Underneath a high, mirrored wall sit banquettes of dark grey leather. Tables with contrasting white linens feature napkins embroidered with the MC logo. Foodwise, the brand follows Caines' culinary education in France, with the in-house chef allowed a certain leeway for a slowly evolving menu. Obvious thought has been put into harmonies and contrasts of flavours and textures. The creamy tones of a parsnip and vanilla purée provide an excellent match for wonderfully soft pan-fried scallops, even if the accompanying vanilla and ginger jus is perhaps a little too subtle. A tasty loin of venison may come accompanied by a robustly flavoured pork belly and an intense, earthy chestnut purée that's redolent of the tiny mushrooms scattered around the meat. For afters, a lofty prune and Armagnac soufflé is cracked open by a waiter and filled with a luxuriously boozy sauce. Diners can also choose any five cheeses from an excellent selection for £12. Dinners are dear, but a two-course lunch comes in at an attractive £14.50.

• High point: Superb range of fairly priced wines
• Low point: Slightly lacking atmosphere