The Albanach

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Right on the Royal Mile, the Albanach tempts tourists with a safe Scottish menu. Its bar, stocking 103 whiskies, leads to a wood and stone dining area out back. One may or may not appreciate the 'modern tartan' walls adorned with patriotic statements, driftwood and bits of barbed wire. At least the seats are comfy; bag the best in the alcove sticking out turret-like over Cockburn Street. This is a polished, packaged product run by big bar chain Belhaven, but, perhaps for this reason, the food lacks pride and passion. Familiar Scottish dishes such as smoked salmon, Cullen skink, fish-cakes and mussels are duly present and do the job, but the meat used in the mains could disappoint: lamb chops selected from the specials board are fatty and mostly depend on mint for taste. In contrast, the roast vegetables are excellent. Likewise, the voluptuous mash with whisky sauce stands out above the haggis-stuffed chicken that it accompanies. The menu gushes that the white chocolate and raspberry cheesecake is 'too good to describe', which does tend to set it up for a fall, and it is a pity that the old faithful cranachan is not a classic - squirty cream and raspberry sauce anyone?

• High point: Mmmmmm - the mash!
• Low point: Cranachan far from the real deal