The Atholl Dining Room

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £27 (lunch)
   £27 (evening meal)
• House wine: £20 per bottle

• High point: High quality cuisine in sophisticated surroundings
• Low point: Slightly lacking in atmosphere
• Food served: Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 7–9pm; afternoon tea 2–5pm (reservations always required)
• Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–11pm
• No. overnight rooms: 18
• Open since: 2003
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of main courses), Children's high chairs

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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The dining room of this smart New Town hotel has a subtle formality and elegance well suited to its menu. Above the fireplace hangs a mural of a pastoral scene by the famous Edinburgh house painter David Roberts, setting the tone of the restaurant, whether it be for lunch, dinner or afternoon tea. On arrival, knowledgeable and friendly staff are on hand to guide you through a selection of modern Scottish dishes while you enjoy an aperitif in the adjoining drawing room. Starters, such as twice-baked goat's cheese soufflé with caramelised pear and walnut salad, or a rillette of salmon and toasted sour dough, are exemplary and demonstrate a high standard that is maintained for every course. Mains include a perfectly cooked seared fillet of beef with foie gras and a delicately poached roulade of Gressingham duck on a bed of spiced red cabbage. To end your meal, choose either from the now standard selection of Mellis cheeses, or a choice of faultless, if unoriginal, desserts such as lemon tart or pear tart tatin. Try the house cocktails or the good selection of wines that come by the glass to accompany your meal. This is classic Edinburgh dining as it should be.