The Atholl Dining Room
34 Great King Street
- Food served: Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 7–9pm. [Afternoon tea: 2–5pm reservations required].
- Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–11pm
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 11
- Private dining: Up to 30 covers
- No. overnight rooms: 18
- Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least ¼ main courses), Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access
- Music on stereo: Classical – iPod shuffle
- Capacity: 14
- Largest group: 30
- Open since: 2003
- Average price:
£24.50 (set lunch)
£24.50 (set evening meal) - House wine: £18 per bottle
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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).
This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.
The Atholl Dining Room speaks in hushed tones. First, step into the tranquil world of the Howard Hotel, set in a Georgian townhouse on the grand parade that is Great King Street. You can ponder the Atholl's concise but interesting menu from the comfort of a deep sofa in the plush sitting room while waiting to be called into the somewhat formal dining room. When the food arrives, the ham hock terrine is a bit flat, despite its slightly spiced pear chutney; the seared west coast scallops are huge, cooked just to opaqueness but tender and accompanied by a subtle celeriac purée. The rack of Pentland lamb arrives cooked exactly to order, bones still sizzling, flesh deep pink against a mound of smoked garlic mash. A fairly drab selection of cheese, albeit from IJ Mellis, fades away in the company of the flaky, hot confection of a roast rhubarb tart, accented with well balanced ginger ice-cream. The kitchen's certainly working hard to please, but results can be inconsistent.
- High point: Incredibly high quality local ingredients from across Scotland
- Low point: Good ideas but slightly hit and miss delivery
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