Paparazzi

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Viewforth's mostly residential Gilmore Place isn't the first location most restaurateurs would think of when starting a new venture, but Paparazzi's owners obviously knew they were onto a winner when they opened its doors back in 2005. The unassuming exterior and understated cream and terracotta décor don't quite live up to the glamour that Paparazzi's name might suggest, but with the spotlight firmly on the innovative, value-for-money menu, over-the-top trappings would seem incidental. Fish, beef, veal and chicken dishes all get starring roles, such as the robust involtini di pollo – chicken stuffed with Parma ham and asparagus – but it's the pizzas and pastas, most priced at around £7, that really steal the show. Pizzas cater equally for meatlovers and vegetarians, and pasta helpings are honest – standouts include the delicately spiced Italian sausage and wild mushroom penne, and the light, deliciously garlicky lobster-filled fresh egg pasta with prawns. Half portions and gluten-free pasta are also available. If there's room for dolci, the dark chocolate truffle ice-cream or marvellously gooey sticky toffee pudding should suffice. Paparazzi is relaxed and well set up – an open archway cleverly splits the restaurant in two, allowing lively parties and smaller groups alike to enjoy themselves, and no-nonsense staff are perceptive and helpful.

• High point: A down-to-earth all-rounder – good food at a reasonable price
• Low point: The cheesy easy listening soundtrack