B'est

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

B'est may only have been up and running for less than two years, but it's already a popular venture, attracting lively parties as well as courting couples with its cheap dining offers. Set menus include a three-course dinner for £14.90 and a two-course pre-theatre deal for £9.90 (the restaurant's close proximity to Edinburgh's Festival Theatre makes this a particularly fitting proposal). On close inspection, these bargain basement prices extend to only about half the items on the menu: others require a supplement of between £2 and £6. Smoked chicken and thyme pâté, served with gritty oatcakes and redcurrant jelly, makes an invigorating cold starter, while the the hot, moist tuna, salmon and haddock fish-cake arrives with creamy sautéed leeks. The selection of mains features familiar themes, but are no less enjoyable for that. The tender roasted leg of lamb is offset by the crunch of red cabbage and a tangy currant jam, while a pan-roasted loin of pork accompanied by wild mushroom and aubergine risotto makes the ideal comfort food. Side orders of mixed vegetables and potatoes are well cooked, though the portions are on the modest side. Still, at these prices it seems almost churlish to grumble.

• High point: Fresh food at remarkably low prices
• Low point: The service is a little brusque