Argan Café

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

PLEASE NOTE: THIS RESTAURANT HAS NOW CLOSED

Review written spring 2007.

The décor of Argan Café is airy, reasonably elegant and quietly welcoming: white walls, wooden flooring and the choice of art conspire to create an impression of suave, yet relaxed, sophistication - helped further by some north African café jazz. A picture of Bogey and Ingrid Bergman from Casablanca adds a nice quirky touch. When the lights dim, it's downright romantic with flickering candles and murmering couples. Chef/proprietor Khalid El Masrour's dapper manager appears quietly confident as he presents complimentary appetisers of sleek macerated olives and warm toasted pita, followed by a wholesome Moroccan soup infused with subtly enlivening spices. Then comes a starter of delicate crispy-coated potato pakora in an aromatic sauce. A main course of west African-style lamb curry is served in a traditional tangine, its lid removed with a deft flourish to disclose a musky dish in which the marvellously curried, succulent and rich meat, dusted with coconut 'snowdrops', contrasts with bright, fragrant saffron rice. Vegetable couscous is a triumph of colour, complementary flavours and textures. And all of this is included in an ample pre-theatre selection. The house wine is a major part of the act, a full-bodied Burgundy setting off nicely the savoury joys of the cuisine.

• High point: Superlative north African cuisine
• Low point: Popular all week - so booking essential at weekends