Thai Orchid

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This restaurant remains relatively unknown, despite having been open since 2005. It is only a few minutes' walk from Central Station but this small restaurant is just far enough out of the inner Glasgow perimeter to be missed by many shoppers. Surrounded by big hotels, the Chinese-owned Thai Orchid depends primarily on tourists and business trippers, but you needn't have a room at the Radisson to book a table. The staff are accommodating, combining the professionalism of silver service skills with everyday banter. The chefs display their expertise in starters such as chicken skewers with a textured satay sauce or deep-fried marinated chicken wrapped in dark green pandanus leaves. The green curry is thick but perhaps milder than expected. Those seeking a little more excitement might opt instead for a coconut-free 'jungle curry', which has additional chillis and basil to make this clear dish far sharper. The seafood parcel – a mound of king prawns, scallops, squid and mussels cooked in a creamy curry sauce and served in the foil it was baked in – is comforting. Thai banana fritters, unlike the Chinese version, aren't coated in batter or drowned in syrup, but are rolled in breadcrumbs and coconut, making them less greasy and more appetising.

• High point: Modern décor with fresh orchids
• Low point: Green curry could be spicier