Café Gramofon

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Now run by the people behind the ever-popular Café Hula, Gramofon still bears the name it was given by the previous Russian owners but little else remains the same. Local art decorates the white-washed walls, there are entertainment nights in the basement, and the whole place has a bright, refreshed feel. The food is prepared in the kitchen in the front window of the bistro, the chef confidently cooking dishes for an eclectic menu (which is expanded at the weekend). A made-to-order mushroom and tarragon risotto has an ideal combination of textures – tender but firm rice in a creamy flavoursome sauce. An authentic old-fashioned cheeseburger – featuring well-seasoned, good quality ground beef – arrives towering out of the whole-meal bun, with a quirky side dish of patatas bravas. The puddings can be delicious. For example, a banoffee pancake comes fresh off the griddle with sliced bananas and a sticky, decadent toffee sauce. An impressive brunch menu, friendly staff and a good wine list ensure this café/bistro goes from strength to strength.

• High point: Quality food in a revamped bistro
• Low point: Old name doesn't quite fit new operation