Urban Grill

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Southside of Glasgow has several up-and-coming neighbourhoods, and the introduction of stylish bars and restaurants to the Shawlands district confirms its place in particular as a desirable location. Perhaps no one targets this emerging affluence better than Urban Grill, which combines a contemporary wine/cocktail bar with a classy brasserie. Dark wood dominates throughout, while large booths give diners some intimacy. Service is proper, both in dress and manner, though the overall atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable. The menu highlights a range of seafood, grilled and vegetarian options. From the starters, a salad of Stornoway black pudding, beetroot and manchego is light and crisp – some mild blood sausage still allowing the taste of subtle Spanish cheese to make its presence felt while the deep-red veg adds sweetness to the finish. Asian-style sticky ribs from the grill section should delight any carnivores – the pieces are so huge they might be classified as chops. The meat falls off the bone with no encouragement and the sauce has an immense flavour of garlic, ginger, honey and star anise. A pianist plays Friday and Saturday nights.

• High point: Drinks, food and entertainment under one roof
• Low point: Service feels a bit stiff

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