The Brasserie at The Menzies Glasgow Hotel

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It's hard to imagine how you might stumble across the Menzies hotel while searching for fine dining. Set in a rather unpromising post-industrial landscape at the edge of the city centre, it's an oddly unplaceable building – you could be essentially anywhere. The anonymity continues in the capacious interior, but fear not, as behind the bland façade lies a kitchen of distinction. A small bowl of cream of mushroom artichoke soup takes a few spoonfuls to reveal its subtle blending of flavours, while seared tiger prawns waste no time getting to the point with their chilli and garlic dressing. Roast salmon comes with a chorizo cassoulet of uncompromising richness and a glowing saffron sauce. Head chef Richard Lyth tempts diners with pheasant and other local game when they're in season. Other quality ingredients include organic trout and salmon, and it is hotel policy to steer clear of GM foods. The set lunch (£14) is brilliant value for three courses, finishing up with desserts such as rhubarb crème brûlée, a spicy bowl of silky tartness rounded off with a dollop of marscapone sorbet on the side.

• High point: Marvellous food…
• Low point: …in such an unpromising location

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