La Concha

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It may sound Spanish, but La Concha actually takes its name from the sister of chef/owner Richard Morana, and its flavour is predominantly Italian. Opened in 2005 and stylishly extended to double the capacity without compromising its friendly atmosphere, La Concha has already established a loyal following. Indeed, the chef's wife and co-owner, Angela, reckons around 80% of diners are regulars. And it's easy to see why. The menu, which changes monthly, relies heavily on the self-taught chef's Sicilian roots with ingredients sourced locally. On request, he will happily apply his skills to produce dishes for those with special dietary requirements. Popular choices include soffiatine, a baked herb pancake that comes with mixed seafood in a béchamel sauce, topped with parmesan breadcrumbs – a sizzling starter in more ways than one. Among the mains is pollo alla diavola – a well balanced chicken dish with black olives as a subtle foil to chillies and garlic. Daily specials depend on deliveries, but could offer cod with chorizo, lentils and marsala – another winning combination. Well-judged portions should leave room for a luscious crème brûlée with raspberries and cardamom or perhaps a platter of three cheeses from Scotland and, of course, Italy.

• High point: Tasty food prepared with Italian passion
• Low point: Annoying front door that blows open