Beanscene

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

It may be part of a chain, but Scottish café enterprise Beanscene stands out by selectively adopting hallmarks such as consistency and friendly service and rewriting them in its own style. The deep leather couches, scattered tables and down-lighting complement the offerings, which err on the side of comfort. Mainline some espresso or a spiced chocolate with cardamom and chilli, alongside sandwiches, cakes and the justifiably popular waffles with maple syrup and cream. A blackboard menu may also promise an interesting mix of paella, nachos, pizza and tapas. While portions are large and pleasant enough, they tend not to have serious character. But - and it's a big 'but' - the service, atmosphere and live music events more than compensate, and the whole shebang has such a flexible set-up that you can drop into most branches at any time (up to 15 minutes before closing) without hearing that depressing 'kitchen's closed' refrain. There are also plans to expand the menu, with an increased focus on evening dining and organic and vegan options.

• High point: Hip but unpretentious atmosphere
• Low point: Unadventurous hot menu