Time 4 Thai
- Food served: Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–11.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11.30pm; Sun 1–11.30pm
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 4
- Also offers: Gluten-free options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Takeaway
- Music on stereo: Modern Thai music, very quietly
- Capacity: 140
- Largest group: 100
- Open since: 2005
- Average price 2 courses:
£20 (lunch)
£20 (evening meal) - House wine: £11.95 per bottle
- BYOB: £6 corkage
This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.
In keeping with its image-conscious neighbours on George Street, Time 4 Thai has ditched the familiar adornments of elephants and corpulent Buddhas in favour of slick modern styling in dark wood, glass and muted shades of stone. While this minimalist décor might not transport you to Thailand, the wide-ranging menu, listing familiar dishes alongside some more innovative alternatives, will quickly start you on your way. Simple dishes, such as coconut milk-based tom kha gai soup, are expertly brought to life with the citrus fragrance of fresh lemon-grass, kaffir lime leaves and the essential hint of chilli. Equally freshly flavoured, the unusually large selection of Thai salads is worth exploring, as is the big range of fish dishes on offer. Crispy fried monkfish arrives smothered in, but not overpowered by, a deftly spiced red curry sauce, with plenty of steamed rice to help ease the chilli burn. Although the deep-fried banana, raisin and coconut parcel served for dessert is curiously cold, the atmosphere in this popular venue is quite the opposite, making it a great place to kick off a night out.
- High point: Interesting new additions as well as old favourites on the menu
- Low point: The choice of only three desserts could disappoint
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